Camino Journal excerpts: part 2

Hi everyone. Here is part two!

Day 18: Still in the meseta...A long 31Km of more flatness and nothingness to El Burgo Renero. As a treat, we sent our packs ahead so we'd be lighter on our feet. When we arrived, Kristina -- an American girl who has been with us for the last few days -- went through my and Robin's packs and made us get rid of extraneous items. Amazing how much lighter my pack is now! We had the "menu del dia" for dinner tonight -- "menu of the day" -- which is a cheap meal available in many bars and cafes along the trail. You get a first course of salad or pasta or soup, then a second course of meat or fish, usually with chips, and then dessert, usually yogurt or ice cream. It also includes bread and wine, all for the bargain price of anywhere between 8 and €11.

Day 19: A very short day, in comparison to the previous 5...only 20Km to Mansilla. We arrived before the albergue opened at noon. Kristina (who went to culinary school) made us grilled cheese sandwiches for lunch. You can only imagine how excited I was:) We had a very relaxed afternoon eating, drinking wine, soaking our feet, and napping. Carlo and Enrico, our Swiss-Italian friends, were there as well and Carlo cooked dinner for 8 of us, including a French couple and a guy from Malta. It was a fantastic pasta feed with mucho vino and great company.

Day 20: Arrived in Leon before 11am after our earliest start yet -- 6:05am. It was dark until 7:30, when we had our coffee break. We stayed at the super-fancy hotel Parador, which is perhaps the fanciest place I've ever stayed in, but Kristina got us a screaming deal on it. Kristina is a typical overachieving New Yorker type. She worked as a trader for years, got her MBA from Cornell while she was working full time, went to culinary school, is a skeet shooter (not entirely sure what that is) in her spare time, etc... After a week of her being with us, I'm of two minds about her. On the one hand, I think she's a lot of fun, very generous, kind, and a nice person. On the other hand, I think she's one of the most self-obsessed people I've ever met. She talks about herself *constantly* and can keep up a running monologue for a good hour, with very little prompting from you, about everything from her wedding plans to her fiancee to her job in finance to her thoughts on Obama, etc. And, she has a Blackberry, which she spends most of her waking, non-walking time tap tapping away at, which drives me bonkers. If that wasn't enough, she also feels the need to repeat several details of the texts, emails, and chats she gets from home -- which, really, I could care less about. Aside asking me what I do for a living, she has not asked me a single personal question or displayed any interest in getting to know me. I am not sure I want to spend my last two weeks on the Camino with her.

Day 21: We decided to take a day off in Leon, as we have time for one, and it's nice to be in a city that has amenities when you have a spare day. Lovely day off of sleeping in, and lazing around Leon. We moved to an albergue run by nuns, and it's easily the most basic place we've ever stayed in -- not a pillow or blanket to be found. Quite a come down. Oh, and I have sore throat. Not cool.

Day 22: We walked out of Leon to San Martino, about 27Km, and most of it was the ugliest day yet on the Camino...mostly along secondary roads or paths that ran parallel to the main highway. Huge noisy trucks rumbling by, uninspiring scenery. We have a new travel companion with us today, a Danish girl named Laerke. She is as about as different from Kristina as you could get... A total free spirit, in love with the trees and the sky and the moon, compassionate, easy to be around. She also looks like she belongs in a Timotei commercial, with her river of white blonde hair. We walked together for most of the day, and it's nice to have someone to talk to again, as Robin and Kristina tend to have a slightly faster pace than me and if I don't feel like keeping up with them, I'm on my own. Which is fine, but I really like talking to Laerke. We bonded almost immediately over our respective lost parents (Laerke's dad died last year) and after an emotionally exhausting morning of talking, we arrived at a house on the edge of town where a man had left snacks and treats out for passing pilgrims. We stopped to chat with him and say thank you, and
as we were leaving, he gave me a little hug and a grandfatherly "besito," which was just so sweet. I find the Camino is full of lovely little magic moments like that, it offers up these little gifts, just when you need them most. And everyone has stories about it -- a man driving a pilgrim to the next town so she could see a doctor, a man giving us a bunch of grapes from his vineyard, and just the general good will that the locals show us as we walk through town -- lots of shouts of "hola!" and "buen camino!". I will really miss that spirit of the Camino, I think it's a very special part of the experience.

Day 23: Today was a little more of the same in terms of scenery, but improved a bit near the end. We walked into Astorga and climbed up some steps that led us right into the heart of the city centre and right into a wonderful market scene. We have been craving vegetables, as Spanish food is oddly lacking in them, so we went a bit crazy buying fruit and veggies, along with the usual cheeses and bread. Lovely little town. All four of us got foot massages from a tiny little Spanish man -- awesome.

Day 24: We arrived in Foncebadon -- about 27Km -- around 1pm today. The first 20 or so was mostly flattish, along typical fields and farms. Then the last 6 were a climb up a mountain...such a joy to be climbing again after the endless flatness. It was relatively easy, not too steep, and the views just got better as we got higher.

Day 25: Today was Laerke's 22nd birthday. We knew this because she had mentioned it approximately 437 times in the last four days. In the morning we climbed 3Km up to the top of the mountain, which is the highest point on the Camino (except for the Pyranees), and had a little breakfast picnic while we watched the sunrise. This is not out of the ordinary, by the way. We have seen the sunrise pretty much every day, as we often walk for an hour in the dark/pre-dawn light, as a way to beat the heat, the albergue rush, and also as a way to deal with the meseta. The walk was lovely -- all along the mountain ridge until we came down sharply at the end into Ponferadda. To celebrate Laerke's birthday we went out for tapas and sangria, and gave her a chocolate donut with some candles as her cake. Well, you do what you can on the Camino!

Day 26: We did 25Km to Villafranca today, but left Laerke at the 20Km mark, as she wants to go back to traveling on her own, but I'm sure we'll see her again.

Day 27: We left Kristina behind today, as she wanted to slow her pace down a bit, so it's back to me and Robin, and I must admit, it's nice just being the two of us again. We walked 30Km to O Cebreiro, most of which was rolling hills until the last two hours, which were up up up, and of course we were doing that in the height of the afternoon heat -- exhausting. But O Cebreiro is the most charming little town and has just stunning views of the green patchwork valley we climbed up most of the day. Really felt like fall today. We officially crossed over into Galicia today, a region in Spain famous for its terrible weather, but we were blessed with clear skies and sun. Robin spoke "Spanglish" most of the afternoon with a Spanish man called Ernesto, who just kept saying "it no normal!" throwing his hands out to indicate this incredible weather. Maybe if we don't talk about it, it won't change.

Day 28: We were in Triacastela before 1pm today, and after our obligatory showers and laundry, we sat out in front of the cafe drinking cupos de vino blanco for most of the afternoon, enjoying having nothing to do. Laerke turned up around 5pm, a very late arrival for most pilgrims, but I think she was waylaid by the Spaniard attached to her -- Placedo, or "Plathedo" as they say in Spain. That's basically how you have to speak Spanish here -- as if you have a lisp. Gracias is "grathiath" and cerveza is "thervetha". So there you go -- "That 70s Show" may have been playing it for laughs when Fez called it "Barthelona," but that's actually how people say it here:) I can't say it without giggling.

Day 29: Yesterday when we were decending into Triacastela, we could see a thick cloud cover over the next valley. Today, we walked into that valley and suddenly found ourselves in a different world. Everything was misty and dark and felt slightly damp, and it seemed likely a hobbit might pop out from behind the next tree. I guess this is more typical weather for Galicia, but it wasn't raining and it was really quite cool. We walked via Samos, where there is a large monastery, and then took the highway route to Sarria, as the walking path had too much up and down for our knees today... When we arrived in Sarria, the sun came out and it was a gorgeous day. The weather gods continue to smile on us:)

Day 30: The fog was so thick this morning we couldn't see to the end of the street. But we climbed for quite a while and then we were above it and the skies were clear. We walked along mountain ridges all day, along little dirt roads lined with stone fences and charming dirt paths lined with trees. So nice. Beautiful sunrise, very misty and cool. Our albergue in Portomarin, however, is not cool at all. It feels dirty, the water tastes terrible, and the kitchen has nothing in it -- not a single cup or fork. What's the point of having a kitchen if there's nothing in it, I ask you!

Day 31: Arrived in Palas Del Rei this afternoon. Quite a bit of uphill in the first half of the day, but then mostly down or flat for the second half. Had dinner with Laerke and Placedo, who have been with us since we met them in Triacastella, but they tend to walk on their own and we just hang out with them at the end of the day. Placedo is a nice guy, though he loses points for his hockey hair, and for his slightly annoying habit of bursting into song when you're in mid-sentence. I wouldn't mind this so much if he could actually sing, or if he chose to sing something other than bad 80s songs such as: "I've Got the Power" by Snap (which he actually rapped, in his heavily accented english), "Wind of Change" by the Scorpions, or -- his worst offence -- "Blame it on the Rain" by Milli Vanilli. Not kidding.

Day 32: A lovely mountain walk to Ribadiso today where we are staying at a really cool albergue...sort of like we are camping. There's a little river and several outbuildings -- laundry, showers and toilets, kitchen and dining area. We had the menu del dia for lunch and added a second bottle of wine, just because...you know...and then headed right for siesta afterward. Have been hanging out the last few days with an awesome Spanish couple, Jesus and Laura, who crack us up regularly. Jesus is about 8 feet tall and super gangly, and always calls me "cup of tea" because I have a little white tin cup attached to the outside of my pack that I use to drink tea, wine, and whatever else, and they think this is hilarious:)

Day 33: Pretty short day to Arca O Pino today, about 22Km. We didn't do much today, just visited the supermercado and had our usual lunch, checked email, and then Robin and I spent the rest of the day having a drink (or more than one) with a couple of American guys we met on the trail today. Everyone is excited about getting to Santiago tomorrow...you can just feel it. I'm excited. Mostly because I'm tired...of living out of a backpack, of wearing the same clothes every single day, of getting up before dawn, of washing my socks in the sink, etc. I think I'm feeling mildly homesick too, so Santiago is coming at the right time.

Day 34: Walking into Santiago today felt slightly surreal. In some ways, it's just another city, with industrial outlying areas, and car dealerships. But the old city is so charming and the cathedral really is stunning -- huge and imposing against the blue sky. And when we arrived there we ran into a number of people we've met along the way, so it sort of felt like a combination of graduation and reunion. We had lunch with our Swiss-Italian buddies, Carlo and Enrico, who have been a day ahead of us for about a week now, and then wandered around with Jesus and Laura and Laerke and Placedo doing various errands -- checking email, visiting the tourist office to check bus schedules to Finisterre (we're going to the beach for a couple of days), and getting our "compostela," the certificate stating that you have completed the Camino. Had mixed tapas and wine for dinner with the trio of Aussie women we met on the meseta and I was completely overwhelmed by the crowds and the noise -- it was like sensory overload after having been in such tiny, quiet towns in the middle of nowhere for the last month. I don't really think this has sunk in yet...maybe tomorrow. Right now, I'm just looking forward to the immediate rewards -- not having to get up at 6am, not having to wear my hiking shoes again if I don't want to, and not having to put my backpack on my aching shoulders for 8 hours a day anymore.

Day 35 - Post Camino: Today we went to the Pilgrim's mass at the cathedral. It being Sunday it was packed -- standing room only. They read a list of all the pilgrims who had arrived the day before -- they don't read your name, they just say so many Canadians started from St. Jean (4 of us) and so on. The service started with an elderly nun coming up to the pulpit and singing a song for the pilgrims and her voice was so sweet I promptly burst into tears and proceeded to cry through most of the service. It felt good though, very cleansing. I think I'm just exhausted on all levels, and am looking forward to going to Finisterre tomorrow to do nothing but chill out.

It's hard to believe the Camino is over. After years of dreaming about it, and months of talking about it, and days of walking it, it's now in the past. I think the biggest lesson the Camino taught me is simply to be present. When you take your first step, you can't think about getting to Santiago -- it's too far, too overwhelming. Instead you just have to think about the here and now. What do you have to do next. I am so grateful to all the pilgrims I met on the trail -- you know who you are -- and all the gifts you gave me. You all made this experience what it was for me. Especially Robin, my Camino sister, who has been with me every (painful) step of the way and has been patient, kind, compassionate, and good humoured throughout all my whinging and blisters, all the while quietly dealing with the calamaties of your own -- cold, stomach flu, and being bitten by every bug in Spain. Walking 800Km across Spain wouldn't have been half as much fun without you.

Love Tessa

ps photos will be up in a while on my Flickr site, but maybe a long while:)